Seoul is a city overflowing with vibrant destinations and mouthwatering eats. But when I pondered what should grace the very first post of my new category, 'Seoul Scene,' I knew it had to be special.
After much deliberation, I chose 'Dalin Kkwabaegi' (Master Twisted Doughnuts) in Seodaemun Yeongcheon Market, a place already legendary on Korean TV programs. However, tasting this legend was harder than I imagined. Since late last year, I had visited three times, only to be met with closed shutters every single time.
Determined not to give up, I set out for a fourth attempt last Saturday with my wife. "This time," I told myself, "I will eat those doughnuts."
Saturday Morning, 11:00 AM We arrived at the market slightly past 11 AM. For those planning to drive, here is a crucial tip: Park at the ‘Dongnimmun Culture Park Public Parking Lot’ (독립문문화공원공영주차장). It is a well-maintained underground facility (B1 to B3), and the elevator takes you directly to the entrance of Yeongcheon Market.
💡 Important Parking Tip: While many merchants in Yeongcheon Market offer a 1-hour free parking coupon, Dalin Kkwabaegi does not (likely due to their incredibly low prices). If you wish to receive free parking, I highly recommend browsing and purchasing items from other stalls in the market as well.
🚇 For Public Transport Travelers: If you are taking the subway, it’s very convenient. Take Subway Line 3 to Dongnimmun Station. Come out of Exit 4 and walk straight for about 10 minutes to reach the market entrance.
The Moment of Truth As we stepped out of the elevator, my heart skipped a beat. The shop was open! (Finally!) Usually, the line wraps around the corner, but thanks to the biting winter cold, there were only about 4 or 5 people ahead of us. It was a rare stroke of luck. Watching the master swiftly twist the dough and drop it into the golden oil was a performance in itself.
The Taste: Why It’s "Heavenly" We ordered a mix of everything. The moment I took a bite of a freshly fried Kkwabaegi, still warm and generously dusted with sugar, I understood why I had failed three times—it sells out for a reason.
- Texture: It isn't just "chewy." It has an airy, cloud-like softness on the inside with a delicate crispness on the outside.
- Flavor: The sugar granules melting on the hot dough create a perfect balance of sweetness. It truly was a "heavenly taste" (Cheonsang-ui mat) that melts away the winter cold.
The Unbelievable Price (2026 Standards) In an era where a cup of coffee costs 5,000 KRW, the prices here are shocking—in a good way.
- Twisted Doughnuts (Kkwabaegi): 3 for 1,000 KRW ($0.75)
- Sticky Rice Donuts (Chapssal Donuts): 3 for 1,000 KRW
- Red Bean Donuts (Pat-donuts): 3 for 2,000 KRW
For just a few thousand won, you can buy enough to feast with your family.
If you are exploring the historical Seodaemun area, this is a must-visit. Just remember, they close as soon as the dough runs out, which can be as early as 3 PM (or even morning on weekends).
Don't hesitate. If you see the door open, get in line immediately. It might be your only chance!
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